Frequently Asked Questions

Yes — Jaspreet is Gas Safe registered, so all gas work (boilers, cookers, safety checks and landlord certificates) is carried out and signed off legally and safely.

No. Quotes are free and no-obligation. We'll usually give you an idea of cost over the phone, and confirm the exact price in writing before any work starts.

We're based between Stoke Poges and Warwick and cover both areas plus everywhere in between — see our Locations page for the full list of towns.

For most bookings we aim to reply within one working day. For emergencies we're available 24 hours a day, seven days a week — if you've got a burst pipe, no heating or no hot water, call us directly whatever the hour. If we can't answer immediately we're likely on another job, so leave a message and we'll ring you straight back. If you smell gas, call the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999 first — see our Emergency page.

Yes — we handle landlord gas safety certificates (CP12), planned maintenance across a portfolio, and can liaise directly with tenants so you don't have to.

It depends on the boiler, but a standard annual service is priced individually — see our Pricing page or ask for a free quote and we'll confirm the exact cost before we start.

If you rent out a property in the UK with any gas appliances, a gas safety check (and CP12 certificate) is a legal requirement, renewed every 12 months. See how we work with landlords for gas safety certificates and ongoing maintenance.

A call-out is us coming out to diagnose or fix something in person, and there's a charge for that — we'll always tell you what it is before we set off, so it's never a surprise. A quote is us pricing up a job before any work starts, and that's always free and no-obligation. For straightforward jobs we can often quote over the phone or from a few photos, without coming out at all.

Start with the basics — check the boiler pressure gauge (most boilers want it between 1 and 1.5 bar), make sure the thermostat is calling for heat and the timer isn't switched off, and check nothing's tripped at the fuse box. If it still won't fire up, most boilers show an error code on the display, which is a useful thing to tell us when you call — see our boiler servicing & repairs page.

A boiler that needs re-pressurising every few weeks usually has a small leak somewhere in the system, or a fault with the expansion vessel or pressure relief valve. Topping it up each time is only a workaround — if it keeps happening, it's worth getting the actual cause diagnosed rather than just re-pressurising indefinitely.

This can be caused by a few different things — low pressure, a blocked condensate pipe, airlocks, or a failing internal component like a pump or diverter valve. It's one of those faults that's hard to diagnose safely without a proper look, so it's worth booking an engineer rather than guessing.

That kettle-like banging or whistling is usually limescale or sludge build-up restricting flow across the heat exchanger, causing localised hot spots. A gurgling noise is a different thing — usually trapped air, which is a much simpler fix. It won't fix itself and can shorten the life of the boiler, so it's worth getting looked at rather than turning the volume up on the TV.

On a combi boiler this often points to a faulty diverter valve, which controls whether the boiler sends hot water to your taps or your radiators. On a system with a separate hot water cylinder, it could be a valve or a thermostat issue instead. Either way it's a job for an engineer rather than a DIY fix.

The condensate pipe carries away the (mildly acidic) water your boiler produces as a by-product, and if it runs outside it can freeze solid in very cold weather, causing the boiler to cut out. Pouring warm (not boiling) water over the visible pipe outside can sometimes thaw it, but if that doesn't work, or you're not comfortable doing it, give us a call.

Once a year is the standard recommendation, both to keep any manufacturer warranty valid and to catch small issues before they turn into a no-heat emergency in the middle of winter. See our pricing for an annual service.

Most boilers last somewhere between 10 and 15 years with reasonable care, though it varies a lot by brand, usage and how well it's been maintained. If yours is getting on in years and repairs are becoming more frequent, we'll always give you honest advice on whether it's worth fixing again or replacing.

This is almost always trapped air, and it's usually an easy fix — bleeding the radiator with a radiator key lets the air out and the water fills the space. If radiators across the house need bleeding often, that can point to a bigger issue with the system that's worth having looked at.

This is a different problem to a cold top — it's usually sludge or debris that's settled at the bottom of the radiator over time. Bleeding won't fix this one; it typically needs a powerflush to clear the system out. See our heating & radiators page.

This could be as simple as a partly closed stop tap, or something further upstream like a fault with the water main, a blockage, or (on a combi boiler) low boiler pressure. If it's just one tap, it's often a blocked or worn tap fitting rather than a whole-house problem.

Usually it's a worn flush valve or float mechanism inside the cistern that isn't sealing properly, letting water trickle through continuously. It's a fairly quick, inexpensive fix and worth sorting promptly since a running toilet can waste a surprising amount of water.

Almost always a worn washer, O-ring or cartridge inside the tap, depending on the type. It's a common, usually inexpensive repair — see our plumbing page — but worth fixing sooner rather than later, since a slow drip adds up on your water bill over time.

It depends on the leak, but generally no — even a small leak can point to a bigger problem building behind a wall or under a floor, and water damage gets more expensive the longer it's left. If you can, turn off the stop tap or isolate that section of pipework and call us rather than waiting.

On a mixer shower this is often caused by pressure changes elsewhere in the house (someone flushing a toilet or running a tap), which a proper thermostatic shower valve is designed to prevent. If yours does this constantly, it may be worth upgrading to a thermostatic mixer, or the valve itself may need servicing.

A one-off blockage is usually just debris — food, hair, grease, wipes. A drain that blocks repeatedly usually has something more persistent going on, like a partial collapse, tree roots, or a section with the wrong fall (slope), and clearing it each time is only ever a temporary fix. See our drainage page.

Most of the time it's a dry U-bend (the water seal has evaporated, often in a drain that isn't used often) or a build-up of grease and debris in the pipe. Occasionally it points to a problem further down the drain run, so if running water down it doesn't help, it's worth getting checked.

Occasional use on a straightforward blockage is generally fine, but repeated or heavy use of caustic drain cleaners can damage older pipework and isn't great for the environment either. For anything that doesn't clear quickly, a proper clearance tends to be safer and more effective than repeated chemical treatments.